TRAVEL BLOG Wolfram Eberstein

Exploring the world since 1965

So Siesta is a real thing.

It is not like getting old (60 and older, you know) and then sneaking in a midday nap here and there, it is about strategically planning your day activities around the sweltering heat between 11am and 4pm, being a bit generous with the duration here.

I got up early (7am) to do a little walk up the Cerro San Christóbal and enjoyed a bit of 15°C morning breeze. Julian relaxed for a few more hours in a snoring free environment, but I consider this unreliable hearsay.

Jesus looking down on Santiago

Of course birding was on my mind and I was quite happy with seeing another three lifers (after yesterday’s four). But the funny thing is that although I have only seen significantly less than 10% of all existing bird species of the world, there were quite a few today, that I was able to enjoy in other parts of the world like the US or Costa Rica before.

I remember a family hike in the beautiful Hollenbeck canyon south east of San Diego on Jan 2nd, 2023, and I was so excited to hear a California Quail from a distance – the view was obstructed by dense weeds. Imagine the surprise today when I saw a whole family of them foraging the ground together with some Eared Doves.

And how extraordinarily beautiful they are.

California Quail (male)
California Quail (female)

Another two examples are the Rufous-collared Sparrow and the Southern House Wren, both seen before in Costa Rica.

New on the list for today were the Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, the Austral Blackbird, and the Black-shinned Siskin, a close relative of the European Siskin.

Black-shinned Siskin

Another universal truth is that the first ten lifers (at least) you see in a foreign country are pretty low on the local rarity scale, but who cares, I am having fun.

After a sufficiently nice hotel breakfast we did a bit of pre-siesta exploring of the city. We were heading towards the city market hall and took a small detour to see the church Iglesia de Santo Domingo, built in 1795 on a location where three previous churches had been built and were destroyed by earthquakes.

Even if not in need of comfort that religions provide to some, I appreciate the history, the architecture, and especially the calmness and the cool air that you can enjoy when taking a break of a city walk.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

Coming from an area in Germany where Lutheran protestantism is predominant and being raised in it, I am always a bit surprised by the central role Maria plays in the Catholic church, she was basically the center piece in this one.

Altar piece

Finally, we made it to the market hall and, as you can expect from a country with a 3000+km long coast close to the nutrient rich Humboldt stream, seafood is the main good on offer.

Market stand

The Atlantic Pomfret (also common in the southern Pacific Ocean) can go to a depth of 1000m, hence the huge eyes.

Pomfret

There are also quite a few restaurants inside serving the fresh catch right on your plate. Actually more on Julian’s plate.

In his words he had the fishiest fish soup ever and as strange as it sounds this was meant as a compliment, the amount of protein in this bowl was mind blowing.

Happy Julian

I’ll spare you the picture of my vegan alternative, it was definitely a bit sad looking in comparison. But when you need moral support you can always count on the strength of the German export machine.

Schlemmertöpfchen

We will go to bed early today as tomorrow we will be picked up by Lalo, our bird guide, at 6am for a birding tour to the Yeso Valley.


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2 responses

  1. Ralf Heyder Avatar
    Ralf Heyder

    Hi Wolfram, happy birthday! What a way to spend it. You guys have a wonderful trip. All the best, and say Hi to Julian! Ralf

  2. Stefi Avatar
    Stefi

    Happy birthday, Wolfram! That is the fishiest soup I have ever seen. Enjoy the weather and the beautiful birds! Stefi Ehlert

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