Tortuguero has many activities to offer and we intend to do a lot of them: Canoe tour, Jungle walk, “volcano” hill climb, bird watching tour. We have done enough night walks and the turtle tour is out of season. Today is canoe day.
I am so proud of my wife. On the way to the harbour: “Isn’t that a Great Kiskadee”? “Have you heard the Melodious Blackbird over there?” “The Montezuma Oropendulas are really loud today.” “Did you see that Blue-grey Tanager?” She has become such a bird expert in two weeks (good to see that the investment paid off). Honestly, it is a pleasure to share appreciation of so many things. ♥️
Canoe tours are great to be in the middle of everything and do this quietly. It is a lot of work to propel yourself forward, but then you can explore the narrowest channels. Tortuguero is called the “Amazon of Central America” for a reason, you go down a broad stream, then fork off into a smaller branch, then a narrower one, until you are in the middle of the jungle and it is difficult to turn the canoe around. There are trees around you, but also the trees are still standing in water, there is no ground.
Bird noises are all around you, adding to the immersive feeling. Our guide spotted again many animals that we would not have seen even from only one meter distance.
Our friend the Boat-billed Heron likes small turtles (more the sweet water turtles than the ones I talked about yesterday) on his menu, and his beak can apply immense pressure and can crack the hardest of shells.
He also doesn’t say no to a small caiman, but they are well camouflaged.
Camouflage helps when you plan a surprise attack on a young Northern Jacana. BTW, this Northern Jacana was disqualified from the “walking on water contest” (see Day 7) – because technically there is no firm ground it walked on, only water below, but it used floating devices, walking on the plants with its huge feet.
Then it started to rain, like a constant heavy flow of water from top to bottom. First it was refreshing (26°C) but after a while with increasing wind we were actually starting to feel cold and happy to intensify the paddling again. But that also ended after a while so that we were able to have a special experience.
Chris loves birds, which I really appreciate a lot (see above), but I guess it is more an acquired family taste. She really goes all gooey for sloths. And a sloth with a baby, … We should adopt one.
It is really super cute how the small one does all clambering by itself, but with mama below it, as a potential safety net. Have a look at its concentrated face.
So that was that, then we had a great breakfast and it was only 9:00am. We needed some mental rest after this intense experience so we chilled in the hotel, Chris in the room and I on the terrace, sending each other hilarious Instagram reels for an hour.
My favourite: https://www.instagram.com/reel/C29zcI9Msss/?igsh=OTBkaDJtNjNtbDB6
Oldy, but Sandra Bullock: https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2szX9GRA0q/?igsh=dDd4MjI5cmFnbGF5
Satisfying as that was but then we needed some real action again and started a walk on the Jaguar trail in the National Park.
Although you can do this without a guide, you really can see Jaguars there, unfortunately we didn’t. But we did see great vegetation and animals again.
Sometimes you wonder what crazy results evolution can produce.
I have talked about leafcutter ants before, but the amazing power of these animals moving a multiple of their own body weight over long distances deserves another honorary mention and a video.
The first half of the Jaguar trail leads for around 3km through the dense forest and then you return the same distance on the beach (which in turtle season is closed off but was accessible today).
Not all turtles seem to make it back into the water, the size of this skeleton was amazing.
On the beach you see many of these craters which I suspect to be empty turtle nests, which we will confirm tomorrow in the Turtle Hatchery, a conservation project located here.
Of course we also saw some birds, a Whimbrel, a Common Black Hawk, and a Turkey Vulture (zoom in for a look at its nice face).
On the way to our sunset dinner.
What a full day. And happy birthday, Winni!!!
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